· By Maria Nilsson
FRIDAY TUNES BY KERYN
Describe to us your perfect day
Morning cuddles with my babes, a fresh juice, a bit of pottering in the garden and some fun uncrowded waves with no time limit.
Being in the Ocean is my special time to restore & connect. So, I always appreciate those uninterrupted moments, especially when there’s a bigger pulse of swell coming through.
Time seems to slow down a bit more, there’s more space & room to move, a few less people around & I feel a deeper sense of calm & attunement, knowing that Mother Nature is in control.
Those special moments when there’s an opportunity to draw bigger lines & open up my body’s expression on a wave are rare gems & for me it’s the most freeing feeling.
Pushing my darling girl into some sunset peelers, watching her independence grow & seeing her excitement when she’s jumping off onto the sand, is literally the best. That kind of stoke is contagious, so I’d want the day to end with that.
What is a social or environmental issue that hits close to home for you?
There are so many. And we’re all impacted by the effects of different issues at some point.
I believe that one of the major factors, which contributes to all kinds of problems we are facing, in our society and our precious environment, comes down to us as individuals.
In order to be effectively invested in making changes to our outer world, we must be invested in healing our inner being, so we can trust ourselves completely to take action.
I feel so strongly that people need to take the time to sit down with themselves and seriously process their trauma, & observe thought, so they can allow for healing, grow into their own wisdom & be more effectively involved in the community.
We’re now at a critical point, and I believe that EVERYONE needs to ACT, in order for us to experience positive change to our Social & Environmental well being.
We need to be inquisitive, question everything, & become involved in a more positive way & teach our children to do the same.
I think with conscious individuals, strong community, good parenting & Action, that many of the social and environmental issues we face, today, could be hugely minimised.
I get so excited, seeing new generations come through with fresh awareness. Things are evolving. And despite the bad in the world, I have faith, as I see there is so much wisdom coming through now.
Everyone faces challenges in life. And the only way out is through. It is not an easy path to take, and there are no shortcuts, but in order to bring out the best in our children (our future leaders) we must be brave and lead by example.
How do you measure success?
I measure success by the quality of my relationships.
To me, loving connections with people are the most valuable gifts in life.
I feel so grateful for my relationships with my family & beautiful friends. This gives me a sense that I’m on the right path, and that I must be doing something right. :)
You can have all the followers and all the “things”, but nothing will fulfill you like Love.
If you could only wear one colour for the rest of your life, what colour would it be?
Honestly, the thought of having to wear one colour for the rest of my life makes me feel really depressed. I’d go nude, or run away with my invisible cloak, so I could wear whatever the hell I feel like.
Your staple healthy meal?
Vege Soup with a whole bunch of parsley on top.
Any irrational fears or phobias?
I used to have dreams that I was either being chased relentlessly by giant Cobras or an angry Casuarry that wanted to headbutt me to death. It turned out, I wasn’t communicating my needs properly, so I was effectively running from my truth.
Once I learnt to speak up and honour my needs, the dreams stopped.
I fear losing loved ones & not living to my potential in this life the most.
How do you practice self love?
Hmmm. It depends on the day & the mood. A few years ago, I hit absolute rock bottom.
Some pretty heavy things happened all at once, and it knocked all the wind from my sails, so to speak. I became unwell, gained weight & lost all of my energy & motivation to surf & enjoy the things I love. Self love became my guide to surviving and regaining my strength.
This year has been so profound for me. I lost my beautiful Mother, Estelle, to cancer.
I spent 2 weeks with her, in the hospital, watching as her body let go. It was emotionally excruciating, I hadn’t slept & I was really missing Rich & Poppy back home.
They came down to pick me up & within half an hour of saying my last goodbye, Mum passed away. She knew I was in safe hands & I knew that she wanted me to be with my family & look after myself.
Mum was always preaching about self care, so I knew I had her blessing.
Two weeks after Mum’s funeral, I got Ross River Virus & couldn’t move for a couple of months. The arthritic pain & fatigue was debilitating & isolating.
Being stuck at home by myself, feeling so much loss & being unable to do anything for enjoyment or distraction, initially felt like a cruel joke.
But I came to see it as a blessing, because I was forced to practice self love & process things in a way I never would, had I been able to distract myself with other things.
To me self Love, it’s focusing on my health, honouring my energy, listening to my body & making decisions based on how my breathe responds.
Saying No (Thankyou) as often as I say Yes = Balance. Going for a surf by myself, if I need some time out, reconnecting with nature, getting in the garden, listening to music, taking time out to do nothing and nourishing myself, so I can extend my energy to my loved ones.
Have you read any good books lately?
I’m going to be real honest here. Haha. No. Unless you mean kids books, in which case, I’ve read a tonne of Dr Seuss lately.
But podcasts? - REALITY RIFFING with GURU JAGAT. She knows what’s up.
What is your favourite surfing memory?
There’s been a few special ones over the last couple of decades. I think my favourite memory is more of a favourite era, when I’d first caught the bug.
You see, I grew up in (gulp!) Brisbane. Our family holiday home on South Stradbroke Island, instilled in me a love for the bush & ocean at a very young age. Every weekend & holiday was spent on the island & going back to the burbs made me feel like a fish out of water.
After spending my whole childhood, plotting my great escape, came the day that I got my license. I’d work 8-10hours a week (tops) in the city & get up at 3:30am, fill up my 1980 Datsun Stanza for 22 bucks & go wave hunting.
Enter the era of Maximum leisure.
I’d be anywhere from Noosa to Diamond Head. Sleeping in the Datto, living on bananas, water & waves. I’d drive back to Brisbane for a shift the night before & be gone the next day. Back then, It was just me, my car and boards exploring and surfing like a full time job. Salty, crispy, red-eyed and satisfied.
The Ocean taught me so much about myself and life. Things I could never learn in any book & I’m so glad that I took this time to immerse myself in the experience. All of these things lead to the life I have now. My beautiful family, friends & surfing community & the place I call home.
The Ocean has been my lifeline through some really lonely & painful times & I feel indebted to nature these precious gifts & lessons.
BOUNDARIES ARE BEAUTIFUL !!!!