· By Maria Nilsson
ATMOSEA TEAM AND THEIR PRE-SURF MARINADE.
Driving to the ocean is a very special activity, that nervous flutter in your stomach is tiny pockets of suspense, popping, with every inch nearer to the ocean you get. Mary told you it was on fire, Suzie said it was small but peeling like a ripe ol’ Cavendish, and Bobby just said “hurry! there’s only five hours left of daylight.” So, you choose a song, to accompany your highly-strung surf exhilaration, biting your nails and tapping those fingers feels like you’re hanging on a cliff waiting to choose the right time to let go. A song to the sea is very important, it will ease your lead foot and remind you of the voyage, and if it’s a surf that you’ll never forget, the music you played before and after will be the stimulant for those memories forever. Incredible, no?
Each Friday we will be introducing our galaxy field of surf stars and their top ten track choices to warrant an excitable journey to the surf, while learning a little bit more about their joyous lives and what makes them tick.
Our first little blemish of stardust is Brianna O’Connell, a true soft delight! So, let’s delve deeper into the person of Bri and tune into her pre-surf marinade.
What do you want to say to people just learning to surf?
Don’t forget to zinc your snoz and lips.
What does your fantasy holiday look and sound like?
I haven’t seen much of the world, but I’m a big fan of it here in Australia. I just did a week trip south, I looked at google maps and noted all the nice looking right hand point breaks, decided on where to go by the wind and swell direction. Ate lots of sandwiches, played pool at bowling clubs, wandered through rainforests, slept in car parks, met the locals, swam in the beautiful creeks and surfed plenty of empty, fun waves.
Tell us your favourite surf memory?
I have very fond memories of surfing at Isla Natividad off Baja. We had no idea about the place, our Californian friend Jack took us there. The wave is a point that breaks along a rock shelf and only works in particular conditions. The waves were bigger than what I had ever surfed (so basically way out of my surfing ability) but it was just the few of us there to surf and too many waves on offer to not give it a shot. It was so much fun, we spent the day surfing, then napping on the deck overlooking, surfing, napping, surfing. I was a bit proud of myself for giving it a go and stoked I didn’t die. I wasn’t as lucky on the rest of the trip (didn’t die though obviously so that was good).
What are you making at the moment?
I’ve been working on some figure drawing, working from photographs but I would really like to work from my own photographs. If you want a drawing of yourself in the nudie let me know.
What is something you really care about but might not have enough time or information to do anything about it?
I really love my grandma and pop, and want to find more time to spend with them. But time/money/distance L
How do you care for our oceans?
I’m scared for the ocean and I’m sure I don’t do enough to care for it. Sometimes I find it hard to comprehend the damage we are doing when I see how beautiful our beaches are but I know that’s just ignorance and I should pay more attention. I try to always make the effort to pick up rubbish when I see it, and do my best to do what is right for the earth not what’s more convenient.
What’s the nicest thing anyone has ever said to you?
My Airbnb reviews are pretty nice.
Written by Daini Stephenson